Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
